After a couple months of just breaking in the staging level and working out the bugs (and retiring from the Air Force, and going camping, and taking a trip to South Dakota…), I finally starting building again yesterday. I’ve got the first turn of the first helix that connects staging to the wye at St. Charles complete. 1.5 more turns to go.
First turn of the staging helix complete with track
This is the second time I’ve used this method to build a helix, and I really like it. I call it the “double pinwheel”–each level is essentially two layers of 8 identical trapezoids of plywood, each put together like a pinwheel with the two layers overlapping. It’s very easy (once you do the math to figure out your trapezoid and cut a master), it’s very forgiving, and it’s very strong after the glue dries.
Some particulars on the helix. It’s a 24″ radius helix that gains 4.5″ per turn. That works out to a 3% grade which should work fine for all the trains that will use it. The track you see looping around it (in the black painted area) is the continuous running loop connection. I was able to let a short string of cars run away from the top, and they negotiated the switches without a hitch at warp speed, even the #4 with REALLY short points going into the L&N staging yard you can see in the photo above (phew).
I’ll write a full article on the double pinwheel helix soon as I don’t know of anyone else who uses this method (let me know if you do). In the meantime, here are some progress pics.
Here’s a closeup of two pieces of the helix going together–I alternate top, bottom, top, bottom, gluing and clamping as I go
My limiting factor for how much of the helix I can build at once is clamps–it takes me about three sessions to build a level allowing about 90 minutes for glue to dry between sessions
I’m taking a pause on construction to work all the bugs out of the staging level before building on top of it, so I thought I’d share my method of building manual switch control mechanisms that operate from the fascia. I developed these mechanisms for my last layout, and since they proved to work so reliably, I’m doing the same on my current layout. What I like about these mechanisms is they’re rock-solid, easy to use, and unlike alternatives such as Caboose Industries ground throws, they keep fingers away from the scenicked area of the layout. As an added bonus, using a DPDT slide switch as the “guts” not only gives it a “snap”, but it makes it easy to power frogs and LED indicators if you want them.
The Design
The figure shows most of the relevant parts of the mechanism. It’s essentially a DPDT slide switch mounted to a piece of 2×3″ lumber for the mechanism, a piece of .062″ music wire and a 3/4″ round wood ball for the control arm, a piece of .025″ music wire for the throw, and pieces of 3/32″ and 1/16″ brass tubing where the music wire needs to go through wood.
Making the Parts
The top portion of the throw bell crank made from music wire
I create the throw first by drilling a snug hole for the piece of 1/16″ tubing about 5/8″ from the throw bar of the switch. I normally drill this dead center between the rails on the frog side of the throw, but if you have benchwork interfering below, you can put this anywhere along the throw bar on either side. I’ve found 5/8″ distance works well with the DPDT switches I use–anything shorter and it won’t throw far enough; anything longer, and the wire is not stiff enough for a reliable throw. I cut a piece of 1/16″ brass tubing just long enough to reach the bottom of the subroadbed while remaining just a fuzz above the ties on top and gently tap it in with a hammer. Next I drill a hole large enough for the .025″ music wire in the throw bar adjacent to the hole for the tubing. I cut a piece of .025″ music wire about 4-5″ long and bend one end to fit perfectly into the throw bar (clipping it to avoid dragging under the throw bar) and dropping into the tube. While holding down the top part of the wire, I reach underneath and bend the other end of the wire as tight as I can by hand opposite the direction of the throw and perpendicular to where the control arm will go–it doesn’t matter that the bell crank is in line with the throw; it matters that it’s perpendicular to the direction the control arm will need to move. Finally, I use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to bend the wire toward the ground about 3/16″ from where it exits the bottom of the tube. The bell crank is now complete, and you should be able to easily throw the switch by moving the bottom of the wire back and forth.
Switch mechanism ready for mounting sitting next to its control-arm wire
Next I build the mechanism. First I solder feeders onto the DPDT switch–I use red and white for the connections to the track bus and gray or blue in the center for the connection to the frog. Next I cut a piece of 2×3″ lumber about 2 1/2″ long (you can use any size, but smaller will be more delicate, and larger will be tougher to fit around benchwork). Then I a notch about 1″ deep just wide enough for the DPDT switch to fit. At this point I designate a “top” of the mechanism and install the DPDT switch with small wood screws. With the mechanism placed between the throw and the frog, the feeders should be REVERSED from the normal orientation of your track bus. In other words, my track bus is normally oriented red/black-front, white-back, so I install my DPDT switch with the white feeder in front. Finally, I drill two holes through the slide portion of the DPDT switch, one just big enough for the .062″ control wire and the other closer to the tip of the switch for the .025″ throw wire. I’ve found drilling both holes with the smaller bit and then enlarging one prevents the plastic from breaking. I put a little countersink into the top of the holes by spinning an X-Acto knife in them to make it easier to insert the wires. NOTE: my switches are hollow inside which makes it a bit of a pain to insert the wires sometimes–it just takes a litte patience. I finish by drilling and countersinking two holes where I want the screws for mounting it to the layout will go.
The next step is the control arm. First I decide where I want the control knob on the fascia. For me, I use a simple track diagram on the fascia with switches drawn in (more on this in a later post), so I draw the diagram first, then drill the hole that will tightly fit the 3/32″ brass tube perpendicular to the ground and aimed toward the end of the throw crank under the layout. Then I cut the 3/32″ brass tubing to fit just through the fascia and 2×3″ board edging the layout. In some spots, there is no board, so I’ll glue a square piece of 2×3″ lumber behind the fascia to ensure adequate support. There might also be other lumber between the fascia and the switch. If its a fairly short distance (<12″), I’ll drill a 5/8″ hole where the control arm will go through. If it’s a longer distance, I’ll drill a second hole for 3/32″ tubing in line with the first–this isn’t tough to do if you take a piece of straight .062″ wire, push it through the fascia tube and mark where it hits the intervening lumber. The straigher you make these two tubes, the smoother the mechanism will be. Finally, I bend a control arm. Starting at the switch end, I bend the last 1″ 90 degrees toward the ground where it will go through the slide switch, then I make a slight bend downward about 1″ from the 90 degree bend toward the fascia hole, then another bend about 1 1/2″ from where it will go through the 3/32″ tubing. The sharpness of the anlged portion depends on how much room you have between the switch and fascia and how far down on the fascia your control knob will be. The shallower the bends, the more solid and reliable the mechanism will be. I cut it with a Dremel tool and cutoff disk (enjoy the fireworks!) so it will protrude about 1 1/2″ through the fascia and file the burrs off the end.
Mounting the Mechanism
Here’s what a completed installation looks like under the layout
This part is straightforward, but it can be tricky and sometimes frustrating to get the switch is exactly the right spot–it requires some experience and skill to get it right, and that experience and skill requires some misfires and mistakes to gain. I first install two 1 1/4″ drywall screws into the mechanism mounting holes with about 3/32″ of the tip sticking through–this gives a way for the mechanism to grab the subroadbed a little while you’re placing it. Then I insert the control arm through the DPDT switch and run the other end through the 3/32″ tube(s) and out the fascia. Next I place the mechanism onto the .025″ bell crank (this part can be tricky and frustrating if the wire and holes don’t line up well). Once everything is inserted, I place the DPDT slide in the middle position and do the same with the throw topside–with both of these in the middle position and the DPDT slide direction in line with the control arm, I press the mechanism into the subroadbed and hold it in place. While holding the mechanism in place under the layout, I’ll try work the mechanism to ensure it throws snugly to both sides. This is a matter of trial-and-error, but once I’m satisfied, I’ll put one of the screws into the subroadbed. Inevitably, it will leave a gap between the mechanism and subroadbed because I wasn’t able to pre-drill the hole. . . no worries. Then I’ll start the second screw, go back to the first and back it out then put it back in to cinch it up, then do the same to the second. If all has gone well, the control arm will easily push the slide switch to both limits, and the throw will push the point rails snugly to each stock rail. If not, back out the screws and try again!
How the completed switch mechanism looks on the fascia
Once I’m satisfied that the mechanism is where it needs to be, and everything is operating smoothly, the last step is to install the control knob. I first push the control arm wire in, then cut it off with the Dremel about 5/8″ from the fascia and file smooth. Then I drill a hole straight into and about 2/3 of the way through the round wood ball. After moistening the wire and ball, I add a drop of Gorilla Glue to the wire and place the wood ball onto the wire. It should be tight enough that you have to twist it on. I like for the control knob to sit about 3/16″ from the fascia when the knob is pushed in. Work the switch a few times while the glue is wet to make sure it feels right where you’ve placed it, then let it dry. Connect the feeder wires to the track bus and the third wire to the frog and the switch mechanism is complete! While it sounds like a lot of steps, if you mass produce the 2/3″ mounts and DPDT switches with pre-drilled holes and wires pre-soldered, you can install 3-5 mechanisms in an hour.
The top portion of the throw bell crank made from music wire
Hammering the 3/32″ brass tube through the fascia–the tubing should fit snugly. the board and clamp are holding a piece of 2×3″ lumber onto the back side of the fascia to add stability.
Two holes drilled into the DPDT switch lever, one for the control arm and one for the bell crank
Switch mechanism ready for mounting sitting next to its control-arm wire
Here’s what a completed installation looks like under the layout
How the completed switch mechanism looks on the fascia
Layout wiring on the St. Charles Branch is simple yet very robust using common household wiring supplies. First, I’ve divided the layout into six blocks: four “main” blocks (1. Staging, 2. St. Charles, 3. Mayflower, 4. Upper Deck), and two reversing sections (1R. Staging loop, 2R. St. Charles Wye). Even though I don’t have a power block distribution circuit yet (like a PSX4), I’m wiring the layout for that eventuality and just tying all the blocks together at the command station as an interim.
Feeders are connected to the wiring bus via wire nuts connected to pigtails along the bus.
The bus wiring for each block is copper Romex wiring. . . that’s right, Romex, the 14 AWG copper wire you use to wire household sockets and light fixtures. It’s overkill, but it’s easy to find, comes in long lengths, and the current loss for DCC applications is pretty much zero. I strip the outer sheathing, remove the bare ground wire, and use the black and white wires. I run them under the track through holes in the benchwork separated by about 2.5″. Lesson learned: if running the bus for two blocks side-by-side, make sure you label each about every other piece of wood to avoid cross-wiring blocks later.
I drop feeders at least every 5 feet, so on every 2-5 feet of bus wiring, I’ll strip off about 1″ of insulation and make a “pigtail” if you will using a length of 4″ of the bare copper wire (Romex ground wire) wrapped tighly around the bus core about 3 turns and soldered. I leave about 1″ of copper sticking off either end and cap it with a wire nut. I separate the pigtails for the white and black wires by about 4-6″ to avoid accidental contact of exposed wire.
Wiring feeders from the rails to the bus under the layout. The gray plug marks the spot of connection to make it easy to cut wires to the right length.
Finally, the feeders. As mentioned, I try to drop them every 3-5 feet of rail. For bulletproof operation, every single rail on the layout is directly connected to the bus either through its own feeder or a single soldered joint to the rail next to it that’s connected to a feeder (no trusting rail joiners to carry current and signal). I drill the holes first, then drop pieces of 18 guage stranded wire through to connect to the bus. You’ll notice in the picture above the layout the little gray plug. I use this to mark the location of the pigtail under the layout so I can accurately cut the feeders to length, leaving about 1.5-2″ extra length to account for vertical distance through the subroadbed and some wiggle room for orienting the feeder to fit into the pigtail. Because I hand-lay my switches, I need a LOT of extra feeders for the point rails and frogs (connected to switches under the layout).
To make sure I hit all the holes, I leave the sawdust from drilling them in-place until all feeders are in. I also work one color at at time; white for one rail, red for the other. Once all the feeders of one color are in place, I’ll tin them with solder and solder each to the rail. Under the layout, I’ll gather together 2-3 feeders, twist them together, and tie them to the pigtail using a common wire nut (size depending on the number of wires being tied together). A little tug ensures they’re solidly in-place.
I’ve found this method creates rock-solid wiring that’s easy to modify and troubleshoot–just disconnect and reconnect the wire nuts as needed. This method also works perfectly with Digitrax DCC which prides itself on picking a slower data rate that works well with non-high-speed wiring. If using on a different system, I recommend doing some testing first.
Last night, I put down the “bronze spike” commemorating the completion of track for the staging level. Not that exciting in the big scheme of things, but it is a major milestone in the layout’s progress!
Tracks on the staging level are now complete. The last piece was the 4-track L&N staging yard shown here.
The last piece of the staging level to be completed was the 4-track L&N staging yard representing Pennington, VA. This yard is stub-ended with tracks about 13.5 feet long. This is enough for a locomotive, cab, and about 20-28 hoppers. Based on photos, this will be more than adequate to represent the meager traffic the L&N hauled off the St. Charles Branch. I made it four tracks because I had the space, and this will give me some room to store trains and cars from “other eras” when not being used for a particular operating session.
There is still a bit more work to do before trains can run. I need to put in the switch control mechanisms and drop about 100 feeders to the main DCC track bus under the layout.
In the photo above, taken from the door to the layout room, you can see the Southern staging yard under the mess on the far left, the beginning of the Southern staging yard and end of the L&N stub tracks against the far wall, the Southern main linking staging to the helix (will occupy the open area on the right) along the right aisle, the L&N staging yard, and the continuous running connection entering along the right-hand wall–this last track connects to the Southern main via a switch just out of view in the lower right corner.
I’m all about simple but effective solutions to construction challenges. One of those challenges is laying multiple tracks (like a yard) on a set spacing quickly. In my case, I have staging yards designed on 2″ spacing between track centers. There are several methods for spacing the tracks: I could just measure between them with a ruler every time I put in a nail, I could mark out spaces and draw a line for the edge of the next track, or I could make a really simple tool to make this process effortless.
Enter my fancy homemade track spacing tool! It’s a piece of 1×3″ lumber about 4″ long and cut 45 degrees on one end. . . I literally pulled it out of my scrap pile. Using a combination square, I penciled in a mark exactly 2″ from the edge on the bottom of the 45 degree face, then drew a second mark one rail’s width in from the first (closer than 2″); then I repeated this from the other side so it can be used in either direction.
Track spacing tool for 2″ centers made from a piece of 1×3″ lumber and some pencil marks
To use the tool, put the first track into place and secure it. When it’s time to lay the second track, simply place the tool along the inside edge of the outer rail of the first track, move the second piece of track so the inside rail lines up with the pencil marks, and secure it. Move the tool down to the next spot, line up the second track, and secure it–too easy. I’ve found using the inner rail of the first track works better than a smaller spacer between outer rails, especially on curves.
I’ve decided to stop modeling the Southern and model the Pennsy main instead. . . Nope, this is the Southern staging yard laid out using recycled Atlas code 83 flex track from my last layout and my handy dandy 2″ track spacing tool
You can make the tool work for whatever spacing you need just by using different marks and different sizes of lumber. It sure ain’t fancy, but it’s elegant in its simplicity.
This is the first section of track on the St. Charles Branch layout. It’s a part of the Southern Railway staging yard representing Appalachia, Virginia.
Yesterday was an eventful day in two ways. First, it was our first day under “stay at home” orders for COVID-19 in Colorado. Second, the extra time gave me a chance to hit a major milestone on the St. Charles Branch–the first sections of track!!!
The first piece was a section of flex track for the Southern Railway staging yard representing Appalachia, VA. I’m hand laying all the track on the visible section of the layout, but I’ll be using Atlas Code 83 flex track for the staging yards, helices and hidden track. The flex track is recycled from my former layout representing the Interstate Railroad’s Dixiana Branch, and I’ve got plenty!
Here’s the start of the first switch in staging. This one leads to two engine tracks alongside the staging. I’m using Tony Koester’s method which is outside-in.
I am hand laying the switches in the staging area, and I started the first two switches yesterday. I’m using the method Tony Koester outlined in Model Railroader a couple decades ago. As you can see, it’s an outside-in method and requires no fancy tools, just rail nippers, needle-nosed pliers, a flat file, a triangle file, a bench vise, soldering iron, and an NMRA track gauge. I’m using Micro Engineering Code 83 rail and small spikes here. The tool set is rounded out with a freight car truck to check things as you go.
First switch mostly completed. This shows one of the things I like about hand-laying: I can stack the points of the second switch right on top of the frog from the first switch.
It’s been more than 5 years since I hand laid a switch, but I’ve found it’s like riding a bike (I looked but couldn’t find where I’d put Tony’s article, so it was all from memory). One lesson I carried over from my previous layout is to pay special attention to two things on the frog: 1) make sure the track is at the tightest acceptable gauge at the frog, and 2) take extra time to make the rails line up perfectly with the point of the frog.
The staging level got a coat of black paint to prepare it for track. This panoramic view of the layout room shows the start of L&N staging on the right and the peninsula for Southern staging on the left.
While I’d never call COVID-19 a good thing, it has made for a lot more time at home and accelerated progress on the layout. Yesterday, I accomplished a major step by painting the entire staging level black. I chose black for the fascia and staging area for two reasons. First, black helps things hide that might otherwise be distracting from the main layout, and second, I’m modeling the coal fields, so black just fits. Not to mention, it’ll look really nice with locomotives in Southern’s tuxedo scheme! I’m very happy with the way the curved Masonite fascia looks in satin black. . . Darth Vader would be proud. I’ve heard people complain that you can’t fill gaps in Masonite, but I found lightweight spackling compound (the kind used to fill nail holes in drywall) works great. I was able to repair a few accidental gouges from a circular saw quite well. The most exiting thing about this step is what it means next–track! I should be hand laying my first few switches this week and laying
These pictures give you an idea of the large amount of staging I’ll have on the layout–probably 2-4x what I need, but better too much than too little. In the first picture, you can see the ties for the switches that mark the entry into the four stub tracks of L&N staging representing the town of Pennington. The Southern will hug the aisle on the right, and the staging yard representing Appalachia will begin just above the green container on the floor and form a reversing loop around the peninsula.
This is looking back under the stairs where the helix to St. Charles will sit on the unpainted lumber. The staging level will have a single track that loops around the back here to create a continuous running loop on the staging level since I won’t have one on the upper levels.
The second photo shows the layout’s other loop which will allow for continuous running on the staging level. I didn’t have this in the original design, but I was inspired by my young nephew’s visit to try to have something running in a circle for him to enjoy (he LOVES trains). Unfortunately, I didn’t have anything running by the time he visited, but I still thank him for inspiring this modification–I think it will pay dividends in the future for breaking in new equipment and entertaining kids. And hey, sometimes you just want to run trains in circles.
View of the overall layout area with the subroadbed for the staging level complete
Nothing too exciting for this update, but I am making steady progress. Last week I was able to finish all the subroadbed (7/16″ ply with 1/4″ “doorskin” under the tracks) for the staging level. Next step is adding some Masonite walls behind the roadbed to hide the studs and keep cars from falling.
Key Digitrax components on the layout including a DCS51 command station, PR3 computer interface, DCS100 (acting as a booster), and power supply
The last couple of weeks I’ve been working on the fascia and wiring for the staging level, and I’ve also installed the DCC system. It’s a lot easier to install when there isn’t a lot of layout in the way, and most of it resides on the bottom deck anyway.
I’m using the Digitrax DCC components from my last layout. While I have an upper-end DCS100 “Chief” system, I’m actually using a smaller, entry level DCS51 Zephyr Xtra as my command station. While the Zephyr doesn’t have the same functionality as the Chief, it’s got everything I need, and it’s much simpler to operate. Like my previous layout, I’ve mounted it on the fascia where it’s easy to access and can be used as a throttle for the staging tracks or for smaller visitors.
One of the simple throttle pockets for the Digitrax UT4D wireless throttles. It’s designed to hold two throttles while preserving batteries and protecting buttons.
The rest of the throttles are UT4D 2-way wireless throttles connected through a UR92 wireless receiver/transmitter. Even though everything’s wireless, I still use several UP5 throttle plug-ins around the layout. This allows someone else to bring and use their favorite Digitrax throttle, and it allows an ops session to go on if the wireless is acting up. Each of the panels has an adjacent throttle pocket that perfectly fits the UT4D throttles (those who visited my last layout will recognize these). This not only gives the operators a convenient place to set the throttles, but it protects the buttons and also promotes the plugging in of throttles when not in use to preserve batteries.
I’m using three sources to power components. The first is straight wall power, and this powers the UP5 panels to supply keep-alive power to the throttles (preserves batteries while the layout is off). The second is switched power for the DCS100 and UR92, and the third is switched power for the Zephyr command station and a PR3 computer interface. I kept these separate so I could turn on just the “Z” and PR3 when I’m programming locomotives.
Functional diagram of the Digitrax setup on the layout
One lesson I learned from my last layout was to keep a functional diagram of the Digitrax setup so I could easily determine how the components are wired together even when they’re covered by the layout–it’s a great aid in troubleshooting!
The staging level benchwork took just under a month start to finish. I guess I could have finished it in about two days if I didn’t have a job or family. . . a month’s good.
First, I want to apologize to all of you who so kindly posted comments just to have them not show up! I hope I’ve fixed my settings now to get notifications so I don’t leave anyone hanging again. The comments are there now, so thanks for your patience!
The benchwork for the staging level is now complete. I was worried that I would run out of pieces of 1×3 from the old layout, but now that I’ve built an entire level of benchwork, I’m not worried about that at all. The layout is small enough that it really doesn’t take that much lumber to frame a level.
The next step will be installing the basic wiring bus and plywood for the staging tracks.
This was the trickiest portion of the benchwork because I had to build it around an existing stud wall. The wall does provide a great way to support the layout, though.
Here’s a look at the benchwork for the two “blobs” where the circles will go and the aisle between.
Today was a big milestone on the St. Charles Branch–I installed the first sections of benchwork! I’m building open-grid benchwork from 1×3 lumber recycled from my previous layout. I started with the staging level (~30″ above the floor) at the reversing loop.
Two is better than one
Making some progress
The first four pieces of open-grid benchwork are in. This will house the staging yard set on a reversing loop under the helix.
The layout is going into an unfinished space, and I don’t want it to look so unfinished when everything is done. Most of the walls will be covered with layout, but there’s one corner by the entrance that will be exposed. I’ve never done any framing or drywalling, so I figured “how hard could it be?”
Here’s how the entrance corner of the room looked when I started. This area is the only part of the room that won’t be covered in layout, so I wanted it to look a little nicer.
The studs along the wall were already in place, so all I had to do was build a frame around the steel beam (pretty straightforward. Now for the drywall. I watched a lot of YouTube which helped, but nothing can quite prepare you for heaving a full sheet of drywall over your head and holding it while you try to put enough screws through the board into wood to keep it there. Despite my best efforts at marking the studs, I missed enough to have the drywall ignore the screws that were secure and come dropping back down on my tired arms–I came up with some pretty creative non-cuss words to share my joy! Thankfully the walls were MUCH easier!
YouTube was again my friend when it came to taping and mudding the drywall. If nothing else, it at least helped me get the right tools for the job, and I found it a moderately soothing chore. A little sanding, a little spray texture and a little gray paint, and the corner mostly looked like it was finished with the rest of the house.
I added a frame around the steel beam in preparation for drywall
After the drywall installation but before the mud and tape
The corner is nearly finished–just need some trim and carpet
Here’s the rest of the room where the layout will go. I’m using 2x3s set into the concrete to hold the layout
I also needed a way to anchor the layout to the concrete wall that made up about 2/3 of the room. I decided to use 2x3s spaced about 18″ apart and set into the wall with nails fired from a Ramset. They’re quite secure!
The final pre-layout touches included installing a couple of cabinets and a counter top I’d picked up from a local recycling store and adding some carpet. For the carpet, I just used a roll of surplus industrial carpeting 4′ wide and laid it down with some carpet tape in the areas where the aisles would be. There’s still some trim work to do, but the room is ready for some benchwork!
